Monday, October 19, 2015

Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition James Bond Watch

With Spectre,  Omega has launched a rather cool limited edition by way of the Swiss Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition James Bond watch. When we covered the initial launch here, after spending a few moments with a production model at the Omega boutique in Vancouver, we figured it wouldn't hurt to share some hands on impressions.



Limited to 7007 units, I'll be astonished if they don't move each and every one at a quick pace. While the modifications compared to the standard Omega Seamaster 300 (hands-on here) are minimal, they have play a considerable role in the look and feel of the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre LE.And,the bezel is the functional change for the limited edition, where Omega has opted for a bi-directional 12-hour bezel. While I consider the dive bezel of the standard model is more appropriate for a Seamaster, the 12-hour bezel perfectly matches the ethos of Bond, who travels far more than he dives. The ceramic bezel uses a Liquidmetal scale, and its functionality is easy, simple, and rather powerful, not unlike Bond. Twelve-hour bezels are seeing something of a comeback, and I couldn't be more supportive of this trend; it's available "complication" that doesn't add any specific cost or complexity to a sports watch.



The other changes are on the dial where the stock spear-tipped seconds hand has been swapped for a lollipop hand that appears approximately white in most light. The Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition  hosts a larger logo as well, brand, and model indication on the dial and deletes the "12" marker seen on the standard Omega Seamaster 300. While I prefer the original logo and "12" marker, the lollipop seconds hand looks certainly cool.

Functionality is the same as the Seamaster 300, with the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition rocking Omega's Master Co-Axial 8400, 300m water resistance with a screw down crown, and a domed sapphire crystal with an internal anti-reflective coating.



Personally, the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition James Bond watch feels a lot like the standard Omega Seamaster 300 save for the included grey and black striped nato strap - the same Daniel Craig is purported to wear in Spectre. The NATO works perfectly for the case and dial and the grey tones match up nicely with the warm coloring of the faux-vintage lume on the markers and hands.

Frankly speaking,I have a similar grey-black nato on my Omega Seamaster 2254, nonetheless apart from function and color, this is little comparison between my $15 strap and the one that comes mounted to the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition James Bond watch. Much like the premium nato on the Blancpain Bathyscaphe, the Omega nato features high quality brushed and signed hardware. Unlike the Bathyscape nato, the Omega strap is soft and pliable right out of the box, requiring no force to fold the tail back into the keeper.



Even as the Seamaster 300, the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre's dial changes comparatively depending on the available light and viewing angle. In bright direct light, the dial has a texture similar to teflon, with the recessed markers adding a warm sandy tone and additional depth as the rhodium plated polished hands catch and reflect light. In lower light or shadow, the dial appears black and the polished hands appear approximately invisible, leaving only the luminous elements at their center to function for legibility. While the display still functions due to the arrow-style hour hand and large minute hand, legibility would likely be better served by a brushed handset or perhaps a dial that doesn't sit as far recessed into the case.



With the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition, Omega has taken an excellent high-end sport watch and modified it in a way that I feel befits its connection with James Bond. I won't profess to be a Bond super fan, but I have really enjoyed the recent Daniel Craig iterations and the $7500 USD Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition is nicely tuned to the ethos of James Bond in those films, offering a compelling mix of Omega's sport watch know-how and a few Bond-inspired tweaks.

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Tudor - Heritage Chrono Blue


The Tudor "Montecarlo" chronograph was released in 1973 and shortly grew to become probably the most effective Tudor watch. Available in many different versions, it had been created for just a couple of years which makes it much more desirable to enthusiasts.

At BaselWorld 2013,Swiss Tudor presented a reinterpretation, not only a replica, of this historic chronograph. Actually, Tudor made some changes towards the original design using the intention to update the initial model towards the modern occasions.



The brand new Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue (ref. 70330B) is determined by its vibrating colours, blue, gray and orange.



The dial has three-dimensional hour markers with two bevelled metallic edges pining a place ?lled with SuperLuminova for optimal legibility. The 2 sub-dials, one at 3 o’clock for that small seconds and something at 9 o’clock for that unusual 45-minute counter, are situatsed inside two blue trapezoidal shapes.



Waterproof to some depth of 150 mt, the steel situation includes a diameter of 42 mm (in comparison towards the 40 mm from the 1973 model). The rotating bezel is bidirectional having a blue anodised aluminium place. Crown and chronograph pushers are knurled having a chromeanish.



The self-winding movement, beating at 28,800 vph, provides a 42-hour energy reserve.



The Tudor Heritage Chronograph Blue includes steel bracelet with folding clasp and safety catch as well as an additional fabric strap with buckle.

Monday, October 12, 2015

The TAG Heuer Cara Delevingne Exclusive Edition Watch Review

Whenever we first heard that TAG Heuer had got face from the moment Cara Delevingne being an ambassador, we have to admit our first thought was “Why?”

TAG Heuer normally has those who have some type of career durability being an ambassador, while Ms Delevingne appears to possess only nearly tallied up her fifteen minutes.


Only then do we realized how clever TAG continues to be. Every lady between your age range of 18-25 really wants to be Cara (and we’d hazard that so perform a couple of the mothers…). Meaning whatever Cara wears will immediately be towards the top of every Christmas and birthday wish list for the following couple of years.

That can bring us the timepiece itself. Which we actually enjoy, despite thinking we wouldn’t.

Consistent with her passion for being small chameleon - red-colored carpet glamour eventually, beanie hat and tops the following - Cara has selected minimal dainty or delicate watch within the TAG stable, selecting rather the 41mm Lady Carrera, passing on a titanium-carbide coating as well as an anthracite dial. However, these quite masculine particulars are off-set through the feminine gemstone-set bezel along with a padded strap with chequerboard stitching.



It’s a TAG although not you may already know it. And it is damn awesome.

If you are following a mechanical you aren't fortunate here. All of the watches are quarta movement using the cost different based on your gemstone and strap preferences. Another factor that may put many people off may be the lion and Cara’s signature on the rear of the timepiece and strap correspondingly. However, how a watch looks around the wrist greater than comprises of these two quibbles.



Just how much influence Ms Delevingne really had around the design expires for debate, nevertheless the watch does seem like a few of her awesome qualifications have applied off on TAG’s designers.

It handles to experience with masculine and female elements, the diamonds aren’t too fancy and we’re huge fans of how it appears around the padded, sewn strap, which provides it a way edge.

It's 41mm, that could look too big on many people, though thinking about how delicate of wrist Cara is, it clearly wasn’t produced with individuals better quality of radius in your mind.



It will not be to everyone’s tastes but we’re certainly offered.

The apparent method to put on it's to consider WWCD (or what can Cara do). So essentially anything goes. Play in the masculine aspect and accessories having a baseball cap, high tops, baggy t-shirt and shorts or funnel the glamour with something black and lacy. Anything you do, remember for attending your eye brows first…

This can be a celebrity collaboration which has really created a wrist watch we believe people may wish to put on and not simply since it has Cara Delevingne written (literally) throughout it.

Thursday, October 8, 2015

Presenting the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 41mm

Audemars Piguet released the brand new 41 mm Royal Trees this year, which we examined HERE, and they've again selected to choose the larger 41 mm situation size for that new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Swiss Luxury Watches.



The brand new collection is going to be obtainable in 4 versions. Steel having a whitened or blue dial and pink gold having a whitened or blue dial.

Based on the manufacture, “The enlarged size has led to a “Grande Tapisserie” dial design that greatly boosts the overall appearance, balance and legibility from the perpetual calendar signs.”



The perpetual calendar features your day, date, a very detailed astronomical moon display, month and leap year. Distinctively, the outer chapter ring shows the 52-days of the season together with a matching central hand that signifies the present week.

The brand new automatic quality 5134 is dependent on its predecessor, calibre 2120. It's been enlarged in compliance using the up-to-date 41mm situation size, even though the watchmakers in Le Brassus handled to help keep the thickness lower to 4.31 mm.



Beating at 2.75Hz (19,800 vph) quality 5134 includes a bi-directional automatic winding rotor that's skeletonized in pink gold (could be custom decorated upon customer’s request). Its 38 jewels, 374 total components along with a 40-hour energy reserve.



The movement is extremely finished and visual with the azure very caseback.

The retail cost is $60,900 in steel (Ref. 26574ST.00.1220ST.01 - whitened dial, 26574ST.00.1220ST.02 - blue dial) and $95,700 in pink gold (Ref. 26574OR.00.1220OR.01 - whitened dial, 26574OR.00.1220OR.02 - blue dial).





Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Spectacular Diver Watches of 2014 Hublot Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli Exclusive Edition

Hublot developed a exclusive edition diver’s watch, stand out that you will find only 20 bits of Hublot’s Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli Exclusive Edition.

Hublot invested 18 several weeks in research and extensive testing in the introduction of Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli. The Swiss Best Watch title was based on the Cheval Blanc Randheli Hotel, a modern day haven in Noonu Atoll in Maldives. Additionally, it is actually the only real place in which the Hublot Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli watch could be bought.


Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc went through testing inside Roxer Tank where it had been put into a controlled pressurized atmosphere equal to 5000 meters under water, however, is really able to enduring pressure at 4000 meters, the depth where it may be worn.

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli includes a 48 mm situation crafted see how to avoid weight grade 2 titanium that is emphasized inside a carefully blown satin finish. Its visual presentation is further highlighted in vibrant colors of whitened and yellow which makes it quite unique in the usual dark colored norm for many diver watches. The dial, flange and hands happen to be given inside a vibrant yellow SuperLuminova? Hue permitting for readability when diving far away of 25 centimetres at nighttime.



Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli includes a helium valve which will help emit gases the watch might intake while diving under water. The valve is situated around the left side from the situation that is attached at 10 o’clock.



The Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli caseback is etched using the Cheval Blanc Randheli Hotel’s emblem and Hublot’s title that is engraved in yellow.  Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc works by having an automatic quality HUB1401 mechanism composed of 180 components. Additionally, it includes a energy reserve of 42 hrs.



As pointed out earlier Hublot Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli is really a special edition watch of just 20 pieces having a retail cost of $26,000 (USD).

Monday, September 28, 2015

Hands-Up with Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton

This season at SIHH, Roger Dubuis introduced a completely new time-only Excalibur model, obtainable in three versions, and run by a brand new in-house movement. The Excalibur Automatic Skeleton shares the distinctive styling from the collection, namely the famous “star shape” skeletonized movement, but sans the tourbillon (or double tourbillon). And importantly, it's an automatic, not really a manual wind. This really is accomplished without impeding viewing movement components because of a micro-rotor (situated between 10 and 11 o’clock).



The Excalibur Automatic Skeleton in black DLC titanium (which we went hands-up with) may be the sportier model within the collection, having a matte black finished situation, bezel and crown. Its measurements are conservative at 42 mm by 11.44 mm, that whenever combined with lightweight from the titanium creates a really comfortable fit around the wrist (the tourbillon models are usually 45 mm or bigger across). Additionally to titanium, it will come in pink gold, or pink gold with diamonds within the bezel, when the understated appearance of the matte black titanium isn't your look.



A completely open-labored dial having a black flange with whitened moved minute track and white gold or platinum applied hour markers comprises the backdrop for that polished gold skeletonized, polished gold, dauphine-formed hour and minute hands.

To offer the transparent look, everything however the essential materials in the bridges and main plate happen to be cut-away. This gives a obvious view of all of the components. However, it ought to be noted the configuration from the components was performed in method in which enables you to definitely benefit from the depth from the movement - and also the superb finishes - without revealing a lot that you're made to stare through at the wrist.



A brand new motor, quality RD820SQ, features charcoal gray rhodium-plating around the manipulate and bridges, that are carried out with a circular grained pattern. The timepiece has Poin?on p Genève certification (Geneva seal), meaning it should be produced in Geneva, the movement must stick to rigorous finishing standards, and also the cased-up watch must show optimum chronometric performance. (Editor’s note: the model we examined has got the Geneva seal at 3 o’clock but is really a carnet piece and it has not been through final finishing and testing. It’s a pre-production watch.)



RD820SQ beats at 3Hz (21,600 vph), has 167 total parts, 35 jewels along with a 60-hour energy reserve. Water-resistance is 30 meters. The titanium model we examined is given a black, hands-sewn alligator strap, having a black DLC titanium adjustable folding clasp. The pink gold versions include a brown alligator strap and matching pink gold folding clasp. There's no limitation on production. The retail cost is $60,200.

Final Ideas



Excalibur Automatic Skeleton black titanium DLC Striking a great balance of aggressiveness and understated elegance, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton black titanium DLC is perfect for individuals who choose the bold appearance of the Excalibur design. With no tourbillon or even the six-figure cost.





Thursday, September 24, 2015

Presenting the brand new Zenith Pilot Range


Following on from the prosperity of last year’s monster Pilot Montre D’Aéronef Type 20 Hands-Wound watch, Zenith have launched a whole type of new models based on it.

Zenith includes a lengthy connection to flying. The very first guy to effectively fly over the British Funnel, Louis Bleriot used a Zenith watch. The brand new collection relies around these original designs and features a GMT, Tourbillon, and Annual Calendar along with the 40mm 3-hands version.




Last years Type 20, made from titanium along with a staggering 57.5mm across, would be a runaway success for that brand obtaining honours including WatchPro’s ‘Mechanical Watch from the Year’.

The brand new range features 5 models in additional practical 48mm cases and also the 40mm version well suited for males or women, coupling a distinctive design with among the best value actions in the marketplace.

Both Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT and also the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar use existing Zenith actions. It's unusual to determine new actions in the major watch brands nowadays because of the price of development.

It is best value for those brands to carry on changing effective actions which value is passed on towards the consumer. Zenith is among the great manufactures of in-house movement.

What Zenith has created is really a watch according to historic designs using the style that's favourable to in excess of-sized watch fans. In justness a pilot’s watch should fit largely on the man’s wrist, they're obviously intended to be visible.


The gathering includes one special edition, the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red-colored Barron. The Red-colored Barron - real title Albrecht von Richthofen - would be a famous pilot renowned for his 80 air combat victories.

In the honor Zenith have produced a Titanium DLC GMT model. GMT functions have frequently been connected with Pilot’s watches but this is actually the first available for Zenith.


The best watch in the collection needs to be Pilot Montre D'Ae?ronef Type 20 Tourbillon, which houses its carriage around the upper left area of the dial. Around the surrounding track may be the date display. An expensive model which will without doubt be very appealing to collectors.

Friday, September 18, 2015

REVIEW Zenith El Primero Chronomaster

The Timepiece Gallery has joined with Zenith with an exclusive El Primero Chronomaster Best Swiss Watch. With simply 10 watches available on the planet, it features our exclusive blue brand pantone around the dial and blue stitching around the strap. Each model also offers the most important-10 engraved around the caseback, it's a classic one-off enthusiast’s piece.

We requested The Timepiece Gallery's Assistant Manager at Selfridges Christine Borg-Mirza to examine this exciting new model...


It is usually an honor for any high-finish watch manufacture to wish to make a special edition watch out for The Timepiece Gallery (our last was a unique collaboration with British watch brand Bremont). It's a real testament in the market that we're valued like a store which is also an effective way for brands to exhibit us their appreciation. Zenith, getting probably the most respected Swiss in-house watch manufactures, has been doing exactly that with this particular exclusive Chronomaster Open El-Primero, restricted to only ten pieces.

The famous El-Primero movement is created completely in-house, however in The Timepiece Gallery version, areas of the movement are made with silicone, what are purply/blueish escape wheel and anchor that's visible when viewing with the open window around the front from the dial.

This new technologies are getting used more frequently in a variety of high-finish watches since it is perfectly smooth so when it interacts along with other components it creates less friction which extends the service interval, reliability and precision - additionally, it adds a fascinating contrast from the other metal within the movement.



It is always good to determine about this 42mm unique steel watch, that her 50 hour energy reserve indicator by 6 o'clock, together with the chronograph half an hour sub dial by 3 o'clock. Despite the fact that the dial comes complete with interesting complications it doesn't feel busy, because the black dial combined with Watch Gallery pantone blue really are a subtle combination which has an understated effect which provides an ageless appeal.

Nowhere stitching about this exceptional watch provides a sporty characteristic to the style of the alligator strap. You'll be able to go swimming with this particular watch because it is 100m water-resistant, yet it's not advisable, despite the fact that around the bottom it features a sweat proof coating to assistance with extending its life time.



The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Exclusive is a perfect everyday watch out for a gentleman who desires a vintage, timeless, and rare watch that will slot in perfectly to the watch collection, it's the kind that you'd very happily pass lower for your family people in decades in the future.


Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Why are men obsessed with watches

Watches are big business these days. And the past few years have seen extraordinary growth in the sector. The Swiss watch industry, for example, saw its exports grow from £2.5bn in 1986 to £10bn in 2008. Despite the fact that the primary function of the watch – to tell the time – has been rendered pretty much obsolete along with the invention of mobile phone. So why are we still buying them?

It wasn't so long ago that your father would hand you a gold-plated watch on your 21st birthday and that would be that. It never crossed a man's mind that he might need to add another two or three by the time he hit 30. And it certainly never crossed his mind that when he reached 40 he might be grateful to receive a smart wooden box with different felt-lined compartments in which to keep his "collection" of watches.



The fact that men are still buying and cherishing quality timepieces is of great comfort to an industry. The invention of the quartz watch might initially have been hailed a great technological achievement, but it wasn't long before it was also seen as the biggest challenge the traditional timepiece had faced since the wristwatch first became popular.

In the mid-1980s, a few forceful and inventive characters in the industry came back with a design philosophy and marketing program that brought the sector back from the brink. These horological pioneers decided that watches would not merely be timekeepers; they would be mini-masterpieces that showcased extreme craftsmanship, represented tradition, incorporated technology and embraced innovation. They would effectively be a Savile Row suit, Ferrari sports car, Mayfair member's club and NASA spaceship rolled into one package that could sit neatly on your wrist.

The idea that technology would deal a fatal blow to the watch, simply hasn't panned out. Men now own iPhone as well as, not instead of, their timepieces. Watches are one of the few items that a man can wear that he believes display true character; signal that he is a member of a particular club. Watches are the acceptable face of male jewelry. A Rolex or a Jaeger LeCoultre, whether it's gold, platinum or stainless steel, is viewed as wholly acceptable.


Whether it cost £50 or £5,000, men clock the watch in the same way some women might take note of another's shoes. It's what we do. And the watch industry is very happy about that.

Speake-Marin Kennin-Ji Temple Masters Project Watch

The Kennin-ji Temple Masters Project is really a one-off piece commissioned by a skilled collector who's enthusiastic about high-quality artisanal craft and thinks that it's the people involved that impart a Luxury watch using its “soul”. And thinking about the calibre from the master craftsmen involved with this adventure, it's certainly obvious the watch is exclusive in additional ways than a single.

The muse with this special watch may be the Kennin-ji Temple, a historic Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, Japan. Founded in 1202, the Kennin-ji Temple is regarded as the earliest Zen temple in Japan, and also the temple’s founding abbot Eisai is credited with presenting the Zen philosophy to Japan. To commemorate the temple’s 800th anniversary in 2002, the Hatto Building was enhanced with a dramatic painting of two beautiful dragons around the ceiling by famous artist Koizumi Junsaku. The expansive painting covers roughly 175 square metres and also the style is different from the standard circular layout because the commissioning Abbot asked for the dragons be “rampaging over the ceiling”.



Talking about the work, Master Watch manufacturing company Peter Speake-Marin communicated his ideas around the project by stating that it's the most remarkable engraving project he's have you been associated with. Because of the complexness and incredible detail from the engravings which the very fact it is not only one component that's being engraved, it had been a significant challenge and incredibly complex.



The multinational Swiss-based groups of four Master Craftsmen accountable for the Kennin-ji Temple Masters Project were Peter Speake-Marin (Project manager and watch manufacturing company accountable for the in-house SM2 movement) Kees Engelbarts (Engraver for that dial and situation) Eddy Jaquet (Engraver for that SM2 movement) and Christophe Seewer (Engraver for embossing the leather from the presentation situation). It's very detailed all the way through which informs particularly when you consider the bezel that's been redeveloped and changed from the walked bezel to some rounder profiled bezel to ensure that the dragons flow effortlessly in the dial, within the bezel and lower the edges from the caseband.



The engraving doesn’t hold on their though the movement also being engraved and also the leather lining from the presentation box embossed having a similar dragon motif towards the watch. The whole piece culminates right into a beautiful high-finish very beautiful watch that's given elegance and standing. It's a statement piece along with a very attractive at this. For that private collector, it will likely be a treasured and valued possession that lots of us are only able to imagine possessing.





Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Hands-Up With The Panerai PAM 615 Luminor Submersible Flyback Titanio

A couple of days ago, I received the Panerai PAM 615 (or Luminor Submersible 1950 three days Chrono Flyback Automaic Titanio entirely) for any hands-on review. This Swiss Best Panerai PAM615 along with its brother having a titanium bezel, the PAM 614, was introduced in Geneva captured. I’ve had a few Panerai watches myself and we’ve done reviews on several models previously, but it's the very first time I really attempted and examined to Panerai Submersible a bit longer.

Panerai PAM 615 Review
Operating the Panerai PAM 615

 

Despite the fact that the Panerai PAM 615 includes a 47mm diameter and it is - go ahead and - a large watch, it didn’t shock me after i strapped it on my small wrist. I do not have very large arms, however I could handle the Submersible effortlessly. The Panerai signed rubber strap guarantees an effective fit and prevents the timepiece from (irritatingly) sliding in your wrist. Operation from the watch is quite easy, the crown can be used to create or correct time and also the two pushers (situated at 10 o’clock and eight o’clock) are utilized to start, stop and totally reset the chronograph.



Panerai uses an in-house developed quality P.9100 for that PAM 615. This column-weal chronograph movement includes 302 components and it has a 3 day energy reserve. In addition, because the official model title suggests, the chronograph includes a flyback feature. A flyback function means that you could totally reset the chronograph and begin it again with one push from the button (situated at 8 o’clock) without needing to steer clear of the chronograph first. The flyback chronograph therefore saves a little of your time in comparison to preventing the chronograph first, push the totally reset button after which press begin anew. For crucial timing this may prove useful.



In addition, this in-house developed quality P.9100 includes central chronograph minute hands and 2 small registers (at 9 o’clock and three o’clock): the standard seconds along with a 12-hour tantalizer. Personally, I really like the feel of two-register chronographs and I’m pleased to observe that more brands are utilizing this lay-in modern watches.

Obviously, this Panerai Luminor has got the trademark crown to make sure water proofing. The Panerai PAM 615 is resistant against 30 bar (roughly 300 meters) and because of using a rubber strap, you are prepared whatsoever occasions to go in water. I did not obviously, however i don't have any doubts this watch goes much deeper in to the water than I'm able to.

Submersible Situation

As written above, the situation from the Panerai PAM 615 Submersible is large using its 47mm diameter. I'd two 44mm Luminor models previously and attempted a 45mm Radiomir sooner or later, and already thought individuals were around the limit of the items my wrist could handle. However, if there something I’ve learnt through the years is the fact that specifications are just in writing. You have to consider using a watch around the wrist to be able to check if it's appropriate for you personally. The Panerai PAM 615 has certainly lots of presence when worn around the wrist, not just because of the big situation but additionally due to the large rubber strap and Pre-Vendome style buckle. I received really one comment from the non-watch person, saying this was one tough searching watch. It is surely.



The conclusion around the titanium situation is extremely nice, lots of surfaces are matt blown and using this method in a variety of directions, per surface, it truly looks awesome. There is no need for several sprucing up on divers watches for me, even though this never disturbed me around the Panerai Luminor Marina models I'd myself.

Around the titanium caseback from the Panerai PAM 615 isn't any azure very ( 1) but rather an engraving of the submersible and where the original workshop began in 1860: Florence. As you can tell around the image below, the lugs have these little spring systems in position that should be pressed after some tool to achieve the strap removed. I've come across an identical mechanism within the bracelet of my IWC Ingenieur 3227-01 if my memory serves me properly.

On the top from the Submersible situation may be the bi-directional bezel. This Panerai PAM 615 includes a matt black ceramic bezel. What surprised me would be that the Submersible I'd for review had two small nicks around the bezel, showing metallic color subterranean. I do not be aware of exact specifications and qualities of ceramics, but possibly the ceramic inlay from the bezel are quite thin. Ceramics could be scratched though; much was obvious in my experience when watching this watch. The bezel feels very solid and there is no play detected. The bezel has obvious markings for each a few minutes and also the ’15’, ’30’ and ’45’ markers are engraved by having an Arabic numeral to have the ability to rapidly find out the remaining diving time.

Panerai PAM 615 Dial and Hands

I already spoke concerning the two-register chronograph and just how much I love that configuration. The big black dial is extremely readable and legible. Large round hour luminous hour markers as well as an Arabic ’12’ and ‘6’. The little chronograph hour recorder situated at 3 o’clock also used Arabic numbers for that ’12’, ‘3’, ‘6’ and ‘9’. The ‘6’ and ‘9’ numbers are ‘open’, such as the ones around the date disc of my vintage Rolex watches. They of Panerai are King in embedding some heritage within their watches. The chrono seconds hands and small chronograph hour hands have been in blue, which provides a really nice contrast. Additionally, it matches the OP logo design around the rubber strap. The central chronograph minute hands are silver, such as the regular skeleton hour and minute hands. The little second’s hands have got the typical shape for Panerai watches.

The hour, minute and seconds hands that indicate time are applied with luminous material and work perfectly throughout low light or perhaps in total darkness.

Strap and Buckle

The black rubber strap is extremely comfortable around the wrist, especially throughout warm or warm weather. I used the Panerai PAM 615 throughout this Summer time so we had some high temps. I do not prefer to put on watches on leather in the sunshine and am really a man that favors bracelets generally. However, the rubber strap is one thing I possibly could get accustomed to very rapidly. I additionally have no idea which kind of leather strap I'd placed on this Submersible because it is clearly a diving watch. Possibly a brown strap would do, but remember that you cannot make use of a leather strap within the water.



The Panerai Pre-Vendome style buckle is one thing Panerai re-introduced a couple of years back. They used this buckle prior to the Vendome Group (now Richemont Group) required in - In my opinion 1997 - making Panerai a part of their luxury group. Enthusiasts and Paneristi were in support of that old style (Pre-V) buckle and that I guess this brought to the choice to re-introduce it again. A smart decision, when I love the Pre-V style buckles too. The titanium (Trapezoidal) buckle around the Panerai PAM 615 includes a nice satin blown finish and it is most unlikely to fail for you. Remember that it's large though, similar to the relaxation from the watch.

Verdict around the Panerai PAM 615

Truth to become told, I'd fun with this particular Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3-Days Chronograph Flyback PAM 615 watch without a doubt. I'm in no way a diver; however I believe only a tiny proportion of individuals putting on divers watch is. It's much more about a particular style you want or perhaps a lifestyle you possess onto. Regardless of the 47mm diameter from the watch it is extremely wearable, but truth to become told I wouldn’t buy this as my only watch. That’s personal obviously, and it has nothing related to the standard or the style of the timepiece.

A chronograph is among the easiest complications for me, when I find myself utilizing it a great deal (in comparison with other complications). I love to time certain pursuits like traveling or throughout cooking, but additionally prefer to time certain procedures I perform on my small computer systems (large data loads or certain processing of queries). The flyback is of no personal use in my experience; however I love the additional complication on the top from the chronograph.



The main one factor that worries me a little about this Panerai PAM 615 may be the cost. It features a recommended retail cost of €16.600,- Euro (~ $18,360.- USD). I realize the Swiss Franc was disconnected in the Euro which Richemont made the decision to complete some annual cost increases nonetheless (it had been €15.700, - Euro during the time of introduction The month of January 2015). The interest in Panerai continues to be impressive (source: Chronolytics.ch), as well as in Q2 2015 the development was especially noticeable within the U.S. States, Asia and Australia in comparison to Q1 2015, so Richemont and Panerai feel you don't need to decelerate on cost increases. However, €16.600, - Euro felt quite steep in my experience, despite using an in-house developed column-wheel chronograph movement with flyback function. However, Panerai is known to keep value with time. This certainly needs to be taken into consideration when you're looking for the Panerai PAM 615.

Another factor that surprised me was the scratches around the bezel. You need to know the watches we receive are mainly samples which are being sent around to journalists, photography enthusiasts and stylists. Not pointing fingers here but these aren't only watch people and can be a little more reckless using these watches that I’m accustomed to. I do not understand what became of the timepiece before we received it, however it had two little nasty marks around the bezel as possible seen around the photos. Let’s think that it did see some hard knocks or perhaps a collision with something ‘hard’ too.

Saturday, September 5, 2015

Hands-On Grand Seiko SBGH001J Review

A couple of days ago I'd the chance to test another Seiko, the Grand Seiko SBGH001J.  I asked for to gain access to this watch from Seiko once i already had a little of Grand Seiko knowledge about their SBGV009 watch (read my in-depth review here).

That specific model though, was built with a quarta movement. You must understand the Grand Seiko comes essentially in three flavours: quarta movement, spring-drive and mechanical. Although I've got a large amount of respect for his or her high-precision 9F quarta movement, my real interest rates are in mechanical watches.



And So I asked for this Grand Seiko SBGH001J from Seiko to carry out a review. Since our adding editor Michael Stockton infected me with this particular Seiko virus, my interest is continuing to grow a great deal with this brand. I additionally observed about myself that i'm protecting the company more frequently after i talk to other watch aficionados who still believe it is an entry-level brand or simply not really a serious competitor for that Swiss watch industry. Since I have faith that Seiko - and particularly the Grand Seiko - is an extremely interesting option to a few of the Swiss and German watch brands available, I figured I’d choose a model which i would really could buy and put on myself. Hence: the Grand Seiko SBGH001J.

Why this model? For me personally it pressed all of the right buttons for a daily mechanical watch: legible dial, classy dauphine hands, interesting situation shape, stainless bracelet not to mention, a fascinating (in-house) movement.



The Dial and Hands

To begin with the dial from the Grand Seiko SBGH001J, it's absolutely perfect. Even underneath the macro lens in our digital photographer Bert it demonstrated no strange marks, no micro scratches, no gaps or any other strange roughness to become discovered. Same factor for that applied logo design, applied hour markers and super nicely polished and cut dauphine hands. The dial signifies it's a Grand Seiko using the GS logo design right underneath the center pinion.  I wouldn't mind when Seiko decides to exchange the applied Seiko logo design at 12 o’clock and show it's a Grand Seiko with that particular place. However, Grand Seiko is an accumulation of Seiko and never another entity, so it seems sensible it's proven underneath the ‘Seiko’ wording.

This watch doesn't have luminous dial, that is in no way a motion picture-stopper for me personally, but keep this in mind when you're searching for this watch. Many people insist upon getting a dial that's readable under low light conditions.



The dial also established that we deal here having a high-beat automatic movement. Like Zenith’s El Primero, this Seiko quality 9S85 movement ticks at 36,000 vph. Not just would this improve precision from the movement additionally, it produces a very nice smooth sweep from the second hands.

The Situation

This Grand Seiko SBGH001J came attention because of the form from the situation. I really like the sharp polished edges in conjunction with matt-blown situation band and wide facets on the top. It appears as though a sword and after you have it in your wrist, or perhaps in your hands, you will notice how incredibly now this degree of finishing is. There's just a little cutout for that crown that partially vanishes within the side from the situation when screwed in. The crown is comparatively large (and surely not in an adverse way) and simple to understand and employ. The situation has this awesome sixties design that people also saw in Michael’s overview of his Grand Seiko SBGW047.



Around the backside from the watch you will notice the transparent caseback that enables you to definitely take a look in the beautiful finished movement. All is performed with noticeably the most attention and care to particulars.

On top of that, this 40.2mm watch is extremely comfortable around the wrist too. It doesn’t stand out or feels overweight. It surely comes with wrist presence, possibly best comparable having a Rolex watch Datejust II.

The Cal 9S85 Movement

I already touched the topic briefly, the in-house developed and manufactured hi-beat movement quality 9S85. It isn't just a looker, its an amazing bit of craftsmanship. It features a very distinct design and also the finish is simply awesome. The movement includes a energy reserve of 55 hrs as well as an precision of -3/ 5 seconds each day, easily within Chronometer specifications. As stated, the movement is really a hi-beat one, ticking at 36,000vph or 10hz. Nowhere second hands because of this have this nice smooth sweep across the dial.

Personally, a presentation back wouldn’t happen to be necessary when i rather should you prefer a closed situation back with nice engraving, once the watch doesn't have complication. The rotor also removes a great deal from the view, but I know that regardless of the blocked view, people need to know what Grand Seiko is all about.

The Bracelet

Now comes the tricky part within this review: the Seiko bracelet. Enthusiastic visitors of Fratello Watches understand how personally I think concerning the bracelets made by Seiko and for me Michael Stockton demonstrated it once again in the Seiko Astron Gps navigation review. Bracelets and straps aren't Seiko’s forté within my humble opinion. Although there's practically nothing wrong with the standard from the bracelet, it's the design that kills it for me personally. It is why I removed stainless bracelets from my Seiko SBDX001 Marinemaster 300M and Seiko Scuba SBDC001 and changed all of them with rubber straps.

I'm able to only imagine how hard it should be to develop an authentic bracelet design and also to take quality and comfort into consideration too. Why I know that beauty is incorporated in the eye from the beholder, personally I think the rather busy searching bracelet of the Grand Seiko SBGH001J really throws the interest in the aforementioned superbly designed and handle situation.



As our time using the watch was in some way limited also it wasn’t particularly an example model, I did not swap the bracelet for any nice searching black strap. However I am of the perception it will give the timepiece design more credits. Really, basically would buy this Grand Seiko SBGH001J watch, I'd get it done the moment after I’d required it of their blue box.

I additionally considered the way the perfect bracelet with this watch would need to search for me, but I'm not an artist, I'm able to only tell things I don’t like about that one and that I keep returning towards the polished parts. I additionally realize that when you take them off, the bracelet could be pretty much a duplicate of the Oyster bracelet. However, now it appears much like the present Omega Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’ bracelet and I’m also not keen on that certain. Regardless, the bracelet ought to be perfectly finished - like it's now - but additionally make certain the shape and sharp edges from the situation would be the center from the attention.

Would I purchase the Grand Seiko SBGH001J?

The amount of finish and craftsmanship is nearly uncommon and may easily contend with the large Swiss names available that - sometimes - possess a cost that that's two times the Grand Seiko cost.

The only real factor that bothers me a little may be the bracelet. Although there's no problem using the comfort, finish or the standard from the bracelet generally, it comes down lower towards the perception of me. A wrist watch such as this warrants a far more ‘quiet’ design or simply a leather strap, because the situation from the watch is really superbly formed and handle.

Basically could be looking for a daily watch this Grand Seiko SBGH001J would certainly perform my candidate. Their email list cost of €5900 Euro is really a serious amount of cash (for just about any watch) and will allow you to select from many watches. However, with this particular Grand Seiko SBGH001J you'll be certain to spend money not everybody else has, possess a watch by having an impeccable finish and remain low profile with it too. He also aware to the fact that you may encounter many people that don't be aware of distinction between a Seiko 5 along with a Grand Seiko. Guess what happens to complete.