The new Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Retrograde for 2014

Patek Philippe is broadly regarded as because the most exclusive luxury watch manufacturing company in the market. Begun in 1839 in Geneva like a pocket watch company, the Patek Philippe Company includes a lengthy and thriving good reputation for watch innovation, including to be the first company to include the chronograph, the minute repeater, the perpetual calendar, and also the split-seconds hand in to the watch.

One in the Patek Philippe 2014 collection particularly snapped up our attention, the Patek Philippe 5496P-014 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde, using its new “honey brown” dial and distinctive layout, that could be referred to as “controlled eccentricity” within an otherwise very traditional world.

The very first edition of the 5496P in 2011 would be a much softer and much more sober form of that layout, using its Calatrava case and “pure” dial design. For 2014, Patek Philippe returns - in the usual, somewhat reserved fashion - a little of eccentricity, a hot and enjoyable color Patek calls “honey brown.”

The dial layout itself might be regarded as as “out-of-the-way” for any Patek Philippe watch, once we are utilized to seeing Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars with three subdials - like, for instance, the legendary reference 5140. Remember that we're speaking in regards to a brand build around tradition and classicism.

Within the lower area of the dial sits the moon-phase indicator, symbolized having a blue disk and silver printings for that moon and stars. The perpetual calendar’s signs are displayed in three apertures: trip to 9 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, and leap year at 12 o’clock. The date is shown by a retrograde hand that suggests a scale between 7 o”clock and 4 o’clock. Time is typically displayed by dauphine hands in the heart of the dial.

Once the first Patek Philippe Ref. 5496P was presented, using its whitened dial, it had been certainly a stylish watch however with, in some way, deficiencies in temerity, and a particular starkness. The brand new color brings a hotter aesthetic having to break the classical codes of the trademark. The “honey brown” dial is unquestionably less conventional, however it provides extensive charm. Because of the dial’s sunray pattern, it is going from the soft caramel tone to some sunnier, gilded look for the way light reflects from it. Yet there's no showiness here, just an additional layer of restrained originality. Another benefit of this color is it produces a greater contrast using the polished whitened-gold hands and indices, as the apertures during the day, month, and leap year come out clearly in the dial itself.

The case is incorporated in the traditional Patek Philippe Calatrava style, using its beveled bezel and flat case-bands. It consists of platinum (out of the box the whitened-dial edition) because the diamond set at 6 o’clock, between the lugs, can attest. All of the configurations are created with recessed pushers integrated between your lugs or near the crown. These eliminate the requirement for any disturbing buttons or pushers, and therefore keep your case design pure. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5496P has very affordable dimensions - 39.5 mm across and 11.19 mm tall - which increase the formal feeling and also to enhanced comfort. Around the wrist, the big opening for that dial and also the simple style of the case slightly accentuate how big the timepiece, passing on a really enjoyable presence. And once more, don’t worry - it's never too flashy.

With the sapphire caseback (interchangeable having a solid back), the individual can watch the movement using its attractive layout and fine finishing. Unlike the legendary Ref. 5140, which consists of using the ultra-thin Caliber 240 Q with micro-rotor, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5496P is operated by Caliber 324 S QR. The perpetual calendar is really a module added on the top from the base movement. The entire height of the “engine” is extremely reasonable, however: only 5.35 mm.

The finishing is, obviously, consistent with what you’d expect from Patek Philippe: hand-polished, beveled angles, Geneva stripes around the bridges and circular graining around the primary plate, polished screw heads and many gold chatons round the rubies. The rotor, in solid gold, can also be perfectly finished, with circular Geneva stripes along with a nice engraving. This higher level of detail is guaranteed through the Patek Philippe Seal (a kind of enhanced as well as in-house Geneva Seal).

Finally, the Patek Philippe 5496P-014 can be obtained at retail now and listed at $115,700.

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