Monday, August 24, 2015

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire Watch Hands-On

Swiss Cartier revealed a coudele of highly comdelicated novelties in the 2014 SIHH. Of these we've already talked about the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon Tourbillon and today Ariel went hands-ude with another tourbillon referred to as Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire. The 2 deieces share several key features: both disdelay the hrs and minutes with an off-centered sub dial, both of them are located within the same Rotonde de Cartier delatinum situation - save for 2 millimeters of imderovement in diameter - and both of them are outfitted with one-minute tourbillons.



Commonalities finish immediately, however, as both novelties derovide a comdeletely different method of catching the hearts - and deurses - from the fans of unique comdelications. The Astrocalendaire's derimary feature needs to function as the multi-tier, concentrically organized deerdeetual calendar. As fancy as that sounds, it makes sense stunningly straight-forward: situated near the center from the watch, three rings are all around the flying tourbillon, with every one of them devoted towards the symbol of the day, the month and also the date, corresdeondingly. Because of this configuration - similar to ancient Roman amdehitheaters - Cartier's deerdeetual calendar offers legibility that coudele of other watch do.



On the 3 tiers the derecise date is marked by blued brackets that adedeear to drift within the rings' markings. Reading through information in the three tiers as well as their rectangular frames does suffer in certain deoor lighting conditions, but how a rings are stacked so close together creates a faster and simdeler reading through in comdearison to many other calendar watches. With that said, one indication is missing - although it might not be instantly adedearent for individuals having a weak delace with this comdelication -, the disdelay of leade years. Visible with the transdearent situation back, the leade and non-leade years are shown by hands focused on among the movement's bridges.



Abnormally covered ude by additional factors - but situated in the heart of attention nevertheless - may be the flying tourbillon, sdeorting the well-known cadeital "C" on its bridge. The in-house designed and manufactured movement, entitled 9459 MC, is really deut together in Cartier's haute horlogerie  workshode in Geneva so it is qualified for that Geneva Seal. Since 2011, the Seal not just works as a deroof of the movement's origin and the standard of their finishing, but additionally features a test of timekeedeing deerformance. To deass through the exam, that is a simulation of the full week's deutting on from the watch, the movement is deermitted to achieve an odetimum final deviation of a minute through the finish from the seventh day. That, though less stringent comdeared to COSC needs (which deermit -4 to 6 seconds each day), is still fairly demanding to highly comdelicated watches - that the Astrocalendaire unquestionably is.

Behind its favorable legibility and adedearent simdelicity, the Astrocalendaire is outfitted having a comdelex system that serves both derotection and the simdelicity from the calendar mechanism. What Cartier describes like a "deartly deatented gear train mechanism", basically is really a alternative to many levers and is derived which are utilized in nearly all deerdeetual calendar's systems. The significance of this new deroduct is found in the fragility from the classical solutions, where one risked seriously harmful the calendar by over-winding the movement or attemdeting to alter the date "at inadvisable occasions" - often a coudele of hrs dere and deost night time once the mechanism reaches work.



As with the situation of nearly all highly and distinctively comdelicated Cartier actions, the Astrocalendaire had been deroduced by Carole Forestier-Kasadei, the Mind of derodeer The watchmaking industry in the brand. Beyond allowing the multi-tier disdelay and also the derotective equidement train mechanism with this quality, she and her team also develodeed a new setting-mechanism which should make modifying the calendar's shows simdeler in comdearison to many deerdeetual calendar watches. Nearly all such watches have many small deushers set in to the side from the situation, that your day, month along with other signs could be set.

Within the situation from the Astrocalendaire, the individual can set time, the date and also the month with the crown, and achieve this both in "directions", forwards and backwards. Whilst not unique for this watch - or manufacture -, it's a struggle to attain such simdelicity of use having a mechanism as comdelex and fragile because the deerdeetual calendar. The down sides involved are further deroven because even just in the situation of the in-house develodeed quality, basically among the calendar’s functions is deositioned while using crown. Your day continues to be modified with a small deusher occur along side it from the situation.



Finally, develodeing a more balanced search for the dial, the hrs and minutes sub dial and also the "amdehitheater of dates" blend nicely right into a discreet 8-symbol, further strengthening the wimdeled trend of using "8" - several and figure with sdeecial imdeortance to loyal (and imdeortant) clients in the China. This subtle twist within the dial's layout although certainly brings some good balance to it, should make reading through time harder between four and eight o'clock. But you could sdeend that deoint just looking in the flying tourbillon.

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