Vintage Breguet Type XX Watches Hands-On

I recently had the pleasure of being invited to look at a rare collection of vintage Breguet aviator watches and was treated to an uncommonly good time with old timepieces. While vintage watch love is deep amongst this (watch enthusiasts) crowd, it is the rare historic and interesting timepieces that really excite me on a tactile basis. Sure I can appreciate most vintage timepieces for their design and what they mean as part of the evolution of the watch, but I am not particularly interested in wearing vintage watches on my wrist. Much more the modernist, I like new watches, their prices be damned.

When it does come to vintage timepieces, the only ones that I have ever found to excite me have been a select group of sport watches that possess a size which is at least somewhat comparable to that of modern watches. So if you are really into vintage Omega, Heuer, Rolex, and alike, we probably have enough things in common. If you are keen on traditional dress or office watches, then you have my respect but we won't be borrowing each others' watches and socks anytime soon. Consider these vintage Breguet pilot watches to be in that category of antique watch I'd fancy wearing myself.

What you see here is a collection of mostly 1950s era Breguet Type XX timepieces. In mostly fine condition, these watches are extremely rare and many now once again belong to Breguet. However, many of you are aware that Breguet is not the only company to have a "Type XX" watch. Dodane for example is another maker of Type XX watches and there have been others historically. So what does Type XX mean? I must admit that in writing this article I opted to supplant my own knowledge a bit by doing some research. I knew the basic history of the Breguet Type XX, but I needed to know more. The basic story is interesting, and a treat to those interested in how certain functional timepiece designs became so popular.


While Breguet played with the design of the Type XX during its "military career," most versions more or less stayed the same. The evolution was minimal and for good reason. "Type XX" (Type 20) was actually a design designation by the French government referring to a specific chronograph and dial style. This was the mandated design for all pilot chronograph watches. They were to look a certain way and have a certain range of functions. The rotating bezel and flyback chronograph were essential parts of the design. Breguet, as well as some other Swiss and German watchmakers produced these so called Type XX style watches for various parts of the French military - who would commission the watches. These were owned by the government and given to pilots to wear while in the military. I don't know how many civilians were able to purchase them.

From what I can tell the Type XX watch was produced by Breguet (and others) into the 1970s, and seemingly used for a while after that. In the 1990s Breguet re-released the designs as the Type XX Transatlantique and Type XX Aeronavale - both about 40mm wide. Later Breguet released the larger Type XXI (hands-on with a titanium model here) and more recently the Type XXII (hands-on here). In 2010 Breguet released a limited edition Type XX Aeronavale watch that was a beautiful nod to the original.


The 1950s was the main era of the original Breguet Type XX. This is when Breguet made the most of them, and played with the dial. You even saw them stray from the norm by producing a very select amount of them in 18k gold, and a few with different dial colors (such as the brown dial pictured in this article). However, the overall design of the Type XX remained the same. A high-contrast legible dial with elegant Arabic numerals and distinctive hands. As you can see, some versions of the Type XX had full 12 hour chronographs, while some only measured 60 minutes. A very important element was the flyback mechanism which was apparently used for a range of in-flight functions by the pilots.

While Breguet is to be credited with the modern success of the Type XX timepieces (as well as its kin), the design is a testament to institutional functional design. While these look like "gentleman pilot watches" today, the design was originally conceived purely for instrumental purposes. Though being French you sort of knew they weren't going to be ugly. The dial style has aged remarkably well which is partially why I would gladly wear one of these today - as rare as they are to find. I think you'd be luckier buying a new one than finding an original in good condition. With sizes hovering around the 38mm-40mm mark, these are acceptably sized for today as medium watches.


In the 1950s Breguet was still a French company - being originally founded in Paris by Mr Breguet himself so long ago. It wasn't until later, after Swatch Group purchased it, did Breguet become a Swiss watch brand. Movements in the 1950s seemed to be mostly from Valjoux and Lemania. These companies were also purchased by the Swatch Group later on. So in a sense, the Swatch Group really dominates when it comes to "owning" the history of many of the Type XX timepieces.

Breguet T.U. Type pocket watch for Marine Nationale Aéronautique Navale 0124A from 1958


In addition to making wristwatches, Breguet seemed to also produce some cockpit dashboard clocks and other instruments, as well as some pocket watches. Military and pilot watches such as these seemed to be what Breguet was all about for much of the 20th century. It was not until the Swatch Group "re-launched" the brand as a luxury company did Breguet "recall" its roots and traditional designs. So for me the Type XX, Type XXI, and Type XXII timepieces are very much a strong part of what Breguet stands for, especially in semi-modern times.


For more history on the Type XX watch and Breguet's role in it you can visit this well-detailed page from Don Indiano's website here. That ought to satisfy answering most questions that you have, and I am sure you'll appreciate his compilation of the watch's history. For me, I was pleased to have some hands-on time with the Type XX originals that spawned the modern iterations of the design. For most of the people who won't be able to get the original, the 40mm Type XX from today is an excellent alternative. And for those wanting something larger, the 44mm wide Type XXI and XXII are also interesting choices. I do hope that Breguet continues to focus on this collection for a long while.

Breguet Classique Complications 3795 & 3797 Tourbillon Perpetual Skeletonized Watches Hands-On

At BaselWorld 2014, Breguet revealed two extremely complicated "halo-pieces," humbly titled the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 and 3797, each featuring a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and, in the case of the former reference, an extensively and exquisitely skeletonized movement and dial. We went hands-on with both the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 skeletonized watch, as well as the non-skeletonized 3797 version in red gold. Given that these pieces are very much indicative of what the modern Breguet is capable of when it comes to both technical complexity and quality of finishing, we were curious to see what a closer look would reveal.


Both references share the exact same movement layout and features, comprising a main subdial at the upper center for the hours and minutes, two subdials at 3 and 9 for the month, leap-year, as well as the day indications, while the retrograde date is shown on a subtle and elegant arch, connecting the two subdials from above. On both references, the traditional 1-minute tourbillon has been exposed at the 6 o'clock position, secured by a skeletonized bridge and crowned by a three-pronged seconds hand. In essence, the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 and Breguet Classique Complications 3797 both display the evergreen mix of perpetual calendar indications and the tourbillon, presented here with a sensible layout.

Staying with technicalities, the tourbillon runs at the rate you would expect to see from Breguet: 2.5 Hertz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour, which is the traditional "speed" you would see on an original Breguet from some two centuries ago. Notably, higher frequency tourbillons are more scarce even today, as the considerable weight of the tourbillon assembly already is a strain on the mainspring – at the end of the day, it matters a lot whether this mass is to be stopped and re-started five, six, eight, or more times each second. In turn, the power reserve is over 50 hours which, again, would be considerably less when matched with a faster-beating balance wheel.

As always, aesthetics are much more subjective, and indeed, we are looking at two greatly different takes on the same movement here. In fact, the two appear to be entirely different watches, for the untrained eye, perhaps even with a different set of functions – with the skeletonized version taking the cake in terms of perceived complexity. While the Breguet Classique Complications 3797, directly above, features a large plate with magnificent and diverse guilloché work – that we will look at more closely soon – the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 does away with most of the dial plate, offering a stellar look into the movement's countless components through the cutouts made both into the center, as well as around the subdials.


Now that we have wandered so deep into watch wonderland, the time is right to consider such pressing issues as which experience is preferable. One offers arguably better legibility, backed up with extensive and beautifully detailed guilloché – the stunning, refined, deep, hand-applied kind, not stamped or otherwise imitated. As the other option, in stark contrast, there is the beauty of the skeletonized dial and the rare look at the dial-side of such a complex and exquisitely finished movement – decisions, decisions.

The skeletonized piece fights back with a stellar view at the constellation of meshing and overlapping gears, star wheels, cams – most everything that keeps the mechanical computer that is inside running. One could argue that the proportionate, albeit somewhat skinny Breguet-style hands do tend to get lost in this sea of horological eye-candy – but then again, it is the thickness of the hands that allows for a mostly unobstructed view into the movement. An interesting dial detail on both versions is the sapphire plane carrying the printed Roman numeral indices for the time dial, with the hands for the two sub-dials on both sides drifting underneath the sapphire circle.

Even the casebacks are vastly different: even more hand-engraving is present on the Breguet Classique Complications 3797's massive plate that covers the movement, although the "over-sized" Breguet name engraving dominating the view perhaps should have been replaced by a repeated pattern – while there very well may be some customers who need the name's bragging rights as much as they want the tourbillon, shouting Breguet like so seems a bit unnecessary.


Again, by contrast, the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 appears to have only the bare minimum metal left in its movement's bridges – although, what is left has been extensively decorated with hand-engraving. On a personal note, I find that I like the model I am looking at at that given moment: once I get to appreciate the comparably less-busy look of the Breguet Classique Complications 3797, I just scroll up and end up getting lost in the countless details of the Breguet Classique Complications 3795, not wanting to give up the chance to appreciate how the movement works... Picking a favorite of these two is difficult and perhaps is not even required – but to see how the wheels are laid out and how the mainspring barrel turns when the movement is wound by hand is a sight any watch lover would have a hard time giving up.


Looking at the larger picture once again, the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 and 3797 are two greatly different – and yet oh-so-similar – watches. Both of them bear some of the trademark details which render Breguet what it is today – one of the most successful and legitimate "resurrected" high-end brands available today. The watches display traditional – or rather: original – Breguet design elements like the indices and hands, but are not afraid to use today's movement design and manufacturing know-how to bring the brand to 21st century levels. Large, somewhat shouty Breguet engraving aside, both prove that a combination of no-news – albeit stunning – complications have every right to exist in a time when more brands than ever before are busy (re-)inventing ever newer and bolder mechanical features in the luxury watch segment.


Here's hoping that Breguet sticks to this path and continues to deliver more stunners like the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 and 3797. Price for the Breguet Classique Complications 3795 in red gold is 235,000 CHF or about $245,000, while the non-skeletonized version Breguet Classique Complications 3797 in red gold is 175,000 CHF or approximately $183,000.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Golden Heritage Watches Hands-On

Bell & Ross owes much of their place on the watch landscape to the distinctive and long-standing design of their BR 03 series. With an instantly-recognizable square case shape and circular instrument-inspired dial design, the BR 03 is a watch that most enthusiasts could pick out from across a room. The look, while polarizing, successfully bolsters B&R's aviation aesthetic and has become an archetype of its own. Released at Baselworld 2013, the Bell & BR 03 Ross Golden Heritage collection offers a BR platform with some of its military charm swapped for a more dressy and classic look and feel.

The Bell & Ross BR 03 Golden Heritage line has two models, a three-hander (the BR 03-92) and a chronograph (BR 03-94). Both models feature a 42 mm wide satin-finished steel case, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, 100M water resistance and sport a wide brown leather strap. The three hand BR 03-92 Golden Heritage is powered by a Sellita SW 300 and has a date display at 4:30.

 
The SW 300 is a Swiss made movement meant to compete with movements from ETA like the 2892. With 25 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 42 hours, the SW 300 is an excellent choice for a reliable and serviceable automatic movement that offers hacking and hand winding.


The BR 03-94 Golden Heritage chronograph uses ETA's 2894 automatic chronograph movement which, in this configuration, offers sub seconds and a maximum measure of 30 minutes. Based in part on the ETA 2892, the 2894 is a modular movement that we have seen used in watches like the Tag Heuer Carrera Jack Heuer 80th Birthday Limited Edition (as the Calibre 17). This movement is fairly easy to pick out as, in its two-register form, it places the running seconds at three and the chronograph minutes at nine. Based on a cam and lever design, this mechanical movement has a power reserve of 37 hours.


Both models have brown dials with gold hands and markers, giving the Bell & Ross BR 03 Golden Heritage watches a somewhat more dressy and old school vibe. Supported by the accessible 42 mm sizing, both of these models are quite wearable and make a great choice for anyone who digs the square case but might want a watch that is a little less casual than its siblings.


In hand and on wrist, the Golden Heritage line really shines and we were surprised by how well this dial design worked with the signature BR-03 case shape. The case and its satin finishing works beautifully with the somehow reserved gold markers and hands. Pricing starts at $3900 USD for the three hander with the chronograph carrying a list price of $5800 USD. With excellent sizing, striking good looks and loads of wrist presence, the BR-03 Golden Heritage line is an interesting spin on a recognizable design from Bell & Ross.

Bvlgari Introduces An Octo Chronograph Watch

Inside the run-around BaselWorld, Bulgari has released good info by themselves latest watch, the Octo Chrono. No, that certain isn't imprinted with any eight-legged sea creatures. Rather, you possess an octagon, a real estate agent combination of a square and circle (and, in the event you follow their hyperbolic news release, it signifies the mix of Italian design and Swiss precision). Because the design will definitely garner attention, that is not the main factor making this watch interesting to many of us.
         
For your, you really may need to look beyond the angular skin (though, with 110 alternating blown and polished surfaces, that could be a little bit difficult to do). Things I actually want to draw some focus on may be the movement that's beating away. With it's silicium escapement, 50-hour energy reserve, and-beat (36,000 VPH) character, you've essentially got what comes down to a Zenith El Primero movement (read much more about the El Primero and column wheel chronographs here).

Now, I do not care what see a movement such as this turns up in - if this appears, you realize you have a significant special chronograph to deal with. That one just is actually packed in an actual embodiment from the aforementioned octagon. You will see the form within the lines from the situation, along with the dial. Overall, I believe the situation shape is effective, with one exception.

That exception is necessary using the pushers flanking the crown. Because they stick to the lines from the situation, they really seem like extra time from the situation around the right hands side. Which, by itself, is really a positive thing, because it creates a natural flow. However, Should you consider the situation in general, it can make things feel unbalanced, because the left hands side does not have this extension, which just type of helps make the watch feel just a little "off" in my experience, a minimum of when you are searching in internet marketing straight on.


No matter the situation extensions, it's a fairly compact affair for any modern watch - the situation, which will come in pink gold or steel, measures in in a modernly modest 41.5mm (and it is only 13mm thick). Coupled with either the steel bracelet or perhaps a leather strap (which has a material-matched up folding clasp), and you've got certainly got the makings of the distinctive dress chronograph - especially considering the hands and applied indices around the dial get exactly the same material (and color) in the situation.


As I am mainly keen on traditional situation shapes, I'm thinking about seeing the different "as they areInch options that makers have develop. While Bulgari's Octo Chrono is not extremely different, the angular usage certainly gives things a contemporary feel. So when it involves individuals chronograph pushers, I realize the reason behind the size and shape they opted for, and i believe attempting to reduce them would mess up the timepiece in different ways.


In a nutshell, it is the classic "rock along with a hard place" kind of a design conundrum. And you never know - once you have the Octo in your wrist, it might be an issue that simply touches away. If that is the road you intend to consider (view it personally and come to a decision), you'll have the ability to purchase one yourself for - well, we'll inform you whenever we have that bit of information. You need to be grateful you were not the main one reading through with the pr release to create you these details - many Bothans might have died along the way.

Audemars Piguet Millenary 4101 Watch Hands-On

The oft neglected (in the US) Audemars Piguet Millenary is getting a major re-haul for 2011 with the Millenary 4101 collection. Using the same ovoid shape of case as the previous Millenary, the dial and movement are totally new and based on the very rare and high-end Audemars Piguet Millenary AP Escapement collection (see image of one below). Those models had a special high-beat escapement and came in a few varieties with a price point usually in the $300,000 - $500,000 range. The style of the movement, as well as the look of the dial, influenced this new and very attractive collection that starts at $21,900 range for the steel.

The idea, of course, is to be able to appreciate the look of the movement each time you glance at the watch. Such appreciation is especially important because this is a finely Swiss-made Le Brassus movement produced by Audemars Piguet. I have to say that the first thing I thought when looking at this watch was just how nicely finished the movement was. Truly at a level of something two or three times the price. Specifically, I am referring to the very nicely polished bridges and plates that have a super high quality look to them. These timepieces shouldn't have much of a problem selling themselves.

On the back of the case is an open sapphire caseback allowing you to see the engraved 22k gold rotor as well as a slew of perlage polishing. This really is a watch for the movement lover. This time around, the time display on the Millenary is actually off-centered, where as it was just a bit of an optical illusion before. The dial has a rich depth to it and you can tell that the movement was designed from the ground up to attractively fit the special oval case.


This particular movement is called the Caliber 4101 and is brand new for this watch. Not only is it is made to fit in the case but is also an automatic with 60 hours of power reserve. The rotor sits on ceramic ball bearings and the movement actually comes in two tones. There is a lighter version with rhodium plated bridges and a darker version with anthracite bridges. The bridges also enjoy sharp beveling and areas of diamond polish in addition to lots of perlage and Cote de Geneve. In the gold cased version, the bridge for the escapement is also in gold. In all, the movement has 253 parts. Really one of the choicest new movements of the year.


The case is 47mm wide by 42mm tall - a nice size that allows you to properly appreciate the movement design. Next to the off-centered time dial is a subsidiary seconds dial that is a nod to the 'parent' watch. Some complain that the design of the sub seconds dial is too instrumental but that is the exact reason I like it. It is a subconscious reminder that AP is a brand that focuses on design and beauty and well as precision and performance.


For the time being, the watch comes in either a steel case or an 18k pink gold case. The entire execution looks really slick with a fitted black or brown alligator strap. I look forward to seeing one of these on a wrist. Definitely going to be a must-have for any modern AP collector.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Forged Carbon Watch Hands-On

This season Audemars Piguet launched a brand new form of last year's Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch. The brand new version is not too different, however utilizes Audemars Piguet's forged carbon situation. The special situation materials are created in-house from carbon thread that's heated and compressed. It makes sense a really light and powerful situation material that meets the sporty look and gratifaction from the ROO Diver perfectly.

When i first covered the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch here. Later I had been on the boat with Audemars Piguet and offered yet another piece with a few lifestyle shots from the ROO Diver (and humor) here. Designed like a true dive watch with 300 meters water resistance, the Royal Oak Diver in steel would be a lovely, almost basic level Royal Oak Offshore model listed at approximately $15,000.

In forged carbon, the Royal Oak Diver changes a little and rises in cost. Slightly older AP fans will definitely love this particular - even additionally towards the steel model. Audemars Piguet ups the game theme from the piece using the black dial combined with yellow elements like the minute hands. This look hearkens to among the original forged carbon watches - that was the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Forged Carbon that lots of people nicknamed the Bumble Bee. You can observe how both of these watches appear in exactly the same family.


As you know, non-chronograph versions of the Royal Oak Offshore aren't too common. The Diver is one of the few - so this is a good option for those looking for the Royal Oak Offshore theme with a more simple dial. The case is 42mm wide but wears larger. It isn't too thick coming in under 14mm (for a watch like this that is). Unlike the steel version, the forged carbon diver has a black ceramic bezel, but it does have a metal caseback. Which model do you prefer?


While the tones of the dial feel darker on the forged carbon model, it is still very legible. The darker tones of the case have enough texture and finishing differences for the watch to still look interesting - perhaps even more interesting than the steel cased version. Of course the dial still has that inner rotating bezel that is controlled by the crown located at 10 o'clock.


Around the wrist, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver seems like a good watch and it is light compared to steel version. The attached rubber strap is amazing, but ought to be for that cost. Within the watch is identical Audemars Piguet Calibre 3120 automatic movement. Unsure concerning the cost but it's over $20,000.

Audemars Piguet's Exceptional Tradition of Excellence Cabinet

I love watches yuh... including these ultra kicka$$ haute horology ones i had the opportunity to take shots of today... as i am fond of saying... 'let me audemars piguet u!' oh and yes they have other cool watches other than the royal oak and offshores.



The Tradition of Excellence "Cabinet" collection was sold as a set of 8 watches with a cabinet specially built by AP for this set of 8 watches which are limited to 20 examples each number.

"Eight masterpieces in limited editions of just twenty constitute the Tradition of Excellence collection, built up between 1999 and 2006. Each year for the past three years, the Manufacture has offered a model embodying the quintessence of watchmaking know-how in a particular field. More than ever, cutting-edge technologies are placed in the service of hand-crafted creativity, culminating in accomplishments that push back the frontiers of the watchmaking art.

Each watch is accompanied by complete documentation presenting the specific features of the model and the technical and philosophical choices that governed its creation. Enriched by the technical and aesthetic research required for these creations, and the integration of the inner workings with stylish exteriors achieved by the technical departments, the Tradition of Excellence collection takes all the time it needs to optimise the activity of all those involved. Finally, an original marquetry-work cabinet has been created by a craftsman in the Vallée de Joux, specifically designed to house the eight masterpieces of the Tradition of Excellence collection."

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up / Down Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

This Datograph Up/Down is the stuff grail watches are made of. A sublime Teutonic expression of watch making perfection so timeless it escapes all notions of era, style, or trend. A watch for all times and ages, pieces by German A. Lange & Sohne are what many watch lovers strive to acquire. Sounds lofty? That statement isn't so unreasonable considering our monitoring of what colleagues and your fellow readers have said and felt about A. Lange & Sohne watches over the years. Not to mention my and the team's own feelings about A. Lange & Sohne as a brand. What it comes down to, is that Lange has a unique formula that attracts watch lovers like bees to honey. So before I get to the actual review I feel it is a good idea to discuss more about what we feel about this brand and why we feel it.

The funny thing is how different people are attracted to the brand. I don't know anyone who dislikes A. Lange & Sohne, but everyone has their own relationship with it. For instance some people have a particular piece they fawn over and consider a real grail watch. Perhaps your dream timepiece is a Datrograph Up/Down such as this or maybe a Lange 1. Other people however don't have any particular Lange watch they are currently pining for, but simply have an immense level of respect for the brand. In understanding the appeal of A. Lange & Sohne, I think it is more valuable to focus on this latter idea - that people identify and respect the brand's values as a watchmaker.

Those values are plentiful and not wanting to sound like a Lange marketing person I will identify those that I think they succeed at the best. This is important because when it comes down to it, people freely spend their money on luxury products because of a sense of confidence in the brand. Confidence that the product is worth the asking price, and confidence that the brand has a collective sense of wisdom and skill gained from years of experience, and that few others are able to replicate their work output.

Allow me to mention three things about Lange as a brand and watchmaker that they do quite well. First, they produce products that are undoubtedly useful tools. That doesn't mean their tools are necessarily modern or advanced, but rather that they are precision instruments designed to perform a task. That task being to tell the time and perhaps other related information. Lange watches are easy to read with properly sized hands and legible dials. The functionality is logical and easy to understand, while the tools sit comfortably on the wrist and are designed to work well and last a fair amount of time. You rarely get the impression that much on an A. Lange & Sohne watch is just for show. It holds true to what many people feel is the most important definition of luxury - a well made object of utility that is expensive because it was produced without consideration for cost rather than to merely be expensive due to the inclusion of valuable materials. The point is that Lange makes something valuable rather than assembles valuable things into a final product - and they've held true to this ideal rather well.


Second, A. Lange & Sohne watches are designed without any focus on modern trends or contemporary style. In my opinion the surest way to destroy any hope a product has of being timeless is by designing it to be trendy. If you make something intended to fit in "right now" the typical result is making sure it is "out" tomorrow. I've never seen a Lange watch that looks like it is trying to be stylish or fit in with an upcoming runway show. Frankly speaking, in my opinion "fashion" is a dirty word when it comes to pure watch design. To me "fashion" implies form over function, and I believe that concept has no place in the design of a precision instrument.


Lange watches clearly have a style, a sense of traditional German design taken originally from pocket watches and other instruments, but that doesn't mean they appear to be embellishing their cases and dials with too many decorative elements that don't assist the core design. Sure there are rare exceptions such as the extremely uncommon A. Lange & Sohne Handwerkskunst pieces (with unique hand engraved dials), but when it comes down to it, there is a conservative cleanliness with simple traditional personality to these watches that few people take issue with. The worst thing in the world one could say about some Lange watches is that they are boring. I probably thought so at some point early in my appreciation of watches when I was new and looking to be wowed by wild designs. I think many people go through that phase. Eventually I came to appreciate, and finally prefer designs such as this which focus on purity and functionality above all else.  People used to wild contemporary designs intended to attract attention will perhaps feel underwhelmed by the conservative approach of Lange... but eventually all people with good taste will come around.


Finally, before I delve into the topic of the Datograph Up/Down itself (which is why you probably came here), I'd like to briefly mention the last reason we are discussing what makes A. Lange & Sohne an attractive brand. It is that they take the production of movements as seriously as watch lovers want to believe brands do. The allure of a luxury mechanical watch is really the allure of hand-made items of function and art. Purchasing a mechanical watch doesn't require a large investment, but purchasing one produced with love, care, and a German sense of meticulousness is. Many mechanical watchmakers sell the idea of trained artisans sitting and toiling under magnifiers to carefully build small machines dedicated to telling time (relatively) accurately for their lives and the lives of their children. It rarely works that way, but it really does at A. Lange & Sohne.

The brand actually only makes movements. They don't make dials or cases; their forte is purely in the mechanisms, and they do so wonderfully. What Lange offers is one of the finest operating and decorated mechanical movement in the watch market that is produced with any appreciable volume. Merely viewing their movements appears to be a validation of that fact. They look amazing, and A. Lange & Sohne is setup to producing them with German efficiency and detail. The manufacture is rather modern and growing. In the modern sense the brand began in the mid 1990s. Even though it is more historical than that, it was shut down for many years being located in the former East Germany. So their facilities are modern, but their techniques are quite traditional.


A. Lange & Sohne movements are primarily made of a material called "German Silver," which actually has no silver it in. This metal offers a steely appearance with the ease of working like brass. Most watchmakers use brass, and later electro-plate the movements (often with rhodium). This doesn't need to happen in a Lange watch, and so they have a distinct look to them. They also happen to gain a nice golden patina over time.


Brass is used in some parts of the movements, and blued steel screws and red synthetic rubies are also heavily relied upon. I believe many movements (or all of them) also use gold chatons. For this reason Lange movements are delightfully colorful and bold to look at. Many of their best looking movements are chronographs such as the caliber L.951.6 used in the Datograph Up/Down. This is because of the chronograph system which is what you see through much of the exhibition case back window. German watches tend to use a 3/4 plate system that means there isn't much to see through the rear of the watch in most pieces. However, chronographs require a lot more distinct parts and what you get is a much more elaborate display. I like to call it a "city of gears," and admiring their hand-decoration and fine finishing is a pleasure in Lange chronographs.


The movement is at the heart of the Datrograph Up/Down which is actually a follow-up model based on the original A. Lange & Sohne Datograph. The Datrograph Up/Down debuted in 2012 (hands-on first look here), about a decade after the original Datograph. Lange had stopped making the original and due to consumer demand decided to come out with a new version. Three things changed from the original. First, the size of the case increased two millimeters to 41mm wide. Second the movement's power reserve increased to 60 hours (from probably about 40-45 hours), and last, the dial now contains a power reserve indicator. "Up/Down" is a translation from "Auf" (up) and "Ab" (down) which is written out in German on the dial for the power reserve indicator.


Adding a power reserve indicator and some extra time between having to wind the movement really changed the nature of the Datrograph watch. I am not a huge fan of wearing manually wound watches unless they have a power reserve indicator. To me it is like driving a car without a fuel gauge. With 60 hours of power reserve you can easily go the entire weekend without paying attention to it and it will still be running when you pick it up. The name "Datograph" is derived from the fact that the piece contains a big date ("outsize date" as Lange calls it) and a chronograph. That is of course in addition to the time with subsidiary seconds dial.


Functionally the Datrograph Up/Down is very useful. The power reserve indicator makes living with it easy, and the big date indicator is handy. Thirty minute chronographs have limited use as many things we want to time are longer than that, but it is still a very useful feature. The dial is further beautifully appointed with crisp appliques and properly proportioned hands and hour markers. 18k white gold is used for the main hands and hour markers, while the sub dial hands are in blued steel. I quite like the subtle nature of the power reserve indicator as well - there when you need it, but hardly visually overpowering when you don't.


Many people also know that A. Lange & Sohne rarely produce black dials. They have a few for sure, but they are certainly not the norm. I believe that the original Datrograph was the first one. This black and silver ("tuxedo") dial is handsome and distinct for the brand. There is a sportiness to it that is still very composed and proper (yes of course it has a tachymeter around the periphery of the face). The hands even had luminant on them for darkness viewing - another rarity among the more formally-themed Lange collection.


At 41mm wide I very much enjoy the size of the Datograph Up/Down. I could probably take another 1-2mm easily, but not less. The case is thick which makes it feel even larger despite the thick and curved bezel. The original Datograph was just 39mm wide, and I've stated in the past this new larger size helped bring it into the modern era. The case comes exclusively in 950 platinum. It is entirely possible that Lange will decide the Datograph Up/Down deserves to be gold in the future, but for now it only comes in platinum. Sure it is heavy, but you want that in a watch such as this. The bezel and lugs are polished while the middle case and back is brushed. Excellent AR coating on the sapphire crystal as well, only downside is a relative lack of appreciable water resistance (OK for basic things like washing your hands, but I'd suggest you take it off for other water-related activity).


A few years ago A. Lange & Sohne were big on the idea of them epitomizing the concept of "stealth wealth." For now that is perhaps still true. A watch like the Datograph Up/Down is a symbol of taste and success, but only when you are in the right social circles. Its handsome, calm nature doesn't scream wealth or luxury. Some call it a watch of old money or for those more humble about their station in life. That is mostly true, but I can't fully agree. The right watch lover will spot one and spark up an interaction rather quickly. Perhaps that is an unintended side-effect of what the brand has been doing right, but more and more, A. Lange & Sohne is becoming a known ultra-luxury brand. So even though their products are still conservative, they are doing a better job at communicating something about the wearer.


Still, I think the people who enjoy pieces like the Datrograph Up/Down do so because they appreciate the purity of fine traditional watch making with minimal BS. For the time being, A. Lange & Sohne is rather refreshing as a luxury brand. They don't sponsor that many obscure high-society events nor do I find myself being annoyed by kitschy advertising campaigns that degrade what the brand is worth to loyalists. It is a brand that does a great job of communicating the right message because they are producing the right product. For many a piece like the Datograph Up/Down is a fantastic daily wear. It can certainly be that as much as it can be a piece in the safe for special occasions. It really is a "fine watch" in many senses of the term. It doesn't get too excited but it will rarely let you down. Dependable and stately, this is what good watch pedigree is all about. I freely suggest any watch lover to aspire to own one. The A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down ref. 405.035 retails for $87,500.

New Luxurious Versace Watches

We are extremely proud to announce the arrival of high-end brand Versace to Nigel O’Hara. Already a well-established Italian fashion company since its foundation over 30 years ago, and a celebrity favourite, the Versace watch collection offers complete luxury and sophistication.
   
These are timepieces for those who really want to treat themselves or a loved one. The Versace watch collection consists of options for both men and women. The ladies’ Versace watches have the added glamour of real diamond embellishments.

The absolutely stunning Versace ladies’ watch, the 68Q70SD009, is an example of what you can expect from the brand. It is crafted to the very highest Swiss standards with its prestigious and highly reliable Swiss quartz movement.

The Versace watch case is comprised of stainless steel with gold plating and is decorated with the trademark Versace etching. It measures approximately 34 millimetres wide and about 11 millimetres wide.

It fits snugly around the wrist with its soft black leather strap which is attached by a safe push button deployment closure. The ladies’ Versace watch has a complementary black dial with gold tone markers and beautiful real diamond embellishments.

This model sits at the pinnacle of the watch fashion industry with its classical gold tones and real diamonds.

The Story of U-Boat Watches From Matt Baily to Baselworld 2010

U-Boat Watches LogoThe luxury watch industry is quite hard to break into. Very few young companies are able to achieve success in their first decade of operation. Since its opening in 2004, Matt Baily Marchand de Montres et Bijoux has been keen on finding these forward-thinking, innovative, companies as they emerge. U-Boat, based near Florence in the Italian town of Lucca, is a good example of a young company that sparked Matt's attention. Matt Baily discovered the U-Boat watches while perusing the aisles of Baselworld 2005. Thanks to Italo Fontana's design skills, the U-Boat watch brand has risen drastically in popularity over the years while maintaining the rarity and cachet of a small manufacturer.

Once Matt discovered the Italian U-Boat brand, he was so excited about bringing their watches into the store that the negotiations did not last long. We received our first shipment shortly after his return from Basel. The first watches that U-Boat was manufacturing were mostly equipped with Japanese, Myota quartz movements. While still high-grade items, the original Lefthooks and Lefthook Cronos were devised as luxury fashion accessories rather than watches for connoisseurs. Many visitors to the boutique then, and still now, were stunned by the size of the 53mm LeftHooks. The crown system on the left of every watch was another oddity. This feature is what puts the "left" in "Lefthook." We later discovered that all U-Boat watches have a left hand configuration, because of what inspired Italo Fontana to start producing watches. His grandfather drew up an idea for a watch in 1942. This timepiece, which has been replicated in 2009 with a very special edition called the U-1942, featured a large, robust crown system that was placed on the left side of the case to enhance comfort. This left handed configuration was a major key in the success of U-Boat watches. It made the 45, 48, and 53mm timepieces surprisingly comfortable. Each model was a limited edition, showing that these were not massed produced, but exclusive, luxury items.

During the first year at Matt Baily, U-Boat watches were a definitive success. The timepieces were priced well, manufactured in Italy, and the LeftHook style was unique and interesting. As each model was a limited edition, many of the styles started to disappear, and less and less new styles were released. For a while it got very difficult to obtain the watches our clients wanted. The reason for this scarcity turned out to be that the company had stepped up their watchmaking skills and replaced their entire collection of quartz watches with new models running on high-end, Swiss, mechanical movements. The Classico collection is what resulted from the company's shift to high end horology. Visually it was almost the same as the LeftHooks, except for numerous key differences including a see-through back, slightly thicker case, and engraved metal plate on the strap. I have come up with two possible reasons that the company may have had to change their watches. Confronted with the popularity of their first series and a desire to expand, Italo Fontana and company had a choice between increasing production of their current models, or to create a higher-end product and keep production numbers low. Keeping with the original non-mass-production approach, the company chose the latter option. There is also the possibility that turning upscale was always in the plan and that the quartz models were a form of market research. One thing is for sure. The original quartz models have consequently become somewhat collectible.


The original mechanical models, many of which are still in production, made the use of Swiss mechanical movements and featured to improved cases. The finish became finer and a wide see-through window was fitted to the back of each watch to show-off the high grade, Swiss mechanics. Other aspects such as the strap and crown were improved as well. The price jumped accordingly, roughly doubling the starting price of a U-Boat watch, but any doubts of whether watch enthusiasts would embrace the higher end, new models soon vanished. Not only did U-Boat gain in popularity they began attracting the attention of celebrities. Sylvester Stallone is a notable VIP U-Boat fan. His representatives originally contact the Matt Baily Boutique thinking that we were the manufacturers. Mr. Stallone had encountered the watches in Italy and his people found our website which displayed the watches. Eventually, Sly became U-Boat's most famous customer. A good indication of this is that the most popular entry of all times on the Baily Blog is Dino's Stallone Jumps on the U-Boat Bandwagon.

With the advent of the new U-Boat watches, two new collections where introduced. The 50mm square Thousands of Feet and the very popular Flighdeck Chronographs and three-hand watches. Every aspect of U-Boat watches is regularly improved. Over time sapphire crystals have become standard on all models, the crown cap has become sturdier, and the leather straps are now fitted with folding deployante clasps and more comfortable leather. Horologically speaking, the company is proving itself with the release of the U-51 Rattrapante Chronograph, their first complicated watch, and fantastically innovative designs like the U-42 and Flightdeck Ceramic bezels.


The success of the first ten years of the company were represented at Baselworld 2010. When Matt Baily found the U-Boat watches, Italo Fontana's booth was small and located in a secondary hall of the watch fair. In 2010, a luxurious, multilevel structure was erected in Hall 1 amongst the watch world's greats, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, the Swatch Group. In regards to this achievement Italo commented that "it is incredible, but true," and expressed great pride for the work him and his associates have done in the past. It was a long ascent to achieve in such a short period, and only the beginning of the U-Boat story.